5/15 10pm


Did you know the black flies are out? I know the black flies are out. I am not certain of much in this world however, I am certain beyond any shadow of a doubt it is now black fly season. Yeah, despite 3 springs here in NH this is the first time I have actually noticed black flies and wow, they suck. Anyway, when I am on the wall I am typically too focused to really pay them much mind, but the second I get down I am swarmed.


I am finally looking to make hard routes instead of easy ones and it is much nicer. Something I have had fun doing is mimicking climbing styles from out on real cliffs, here on the chapel. For example, crack climbing is one of the most popular styles of climbing, but there aren't any cracks even remotely climbable on the chapel. Despite that By only using the sides of hold you can get a similar effect.


This route uses only one side of holds to kind of emulate climbing the side of a crack. Ultimately it is not too faith full to the form but none the less it makes for an interesting and challenging route that bares some resemblance to its predecessor.


Daily Hours 4


Total Hours 27

Comments

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

Image
  5/26 8pm It is crunch time! I have done a lot of work in the past 12 hours to get everything wrapped up and ready for tomorrow. I have written 2000 words or so in the past 24 hours and it is so much fun seeing everything come together. While writing my reflection paper I realized that I have learned a lot in this project. Thinking about how other people will do a climb I make. It is almost like a cool form of self consciousness. It has also been fun to see my guide google doc grow from 3 pages to 10 pages, to now just under 30. I am looking forward to stapling my first paper copy and flipping through the pages one by one with the hope that many more people will too some day. https://docs.google.com/document/d/1HF2Cfyog-h4gOy2LnvUZY_djIzy7Gerrp9EijzcF-q8/edit?usp=sharing I figured I would save the coolest photo for last. Daily Hours 5 Total Hours 57
Read more

Day 1

Image
5/10/2021  6:30pm   I woke up this morning to the sound of rain and thought “Oh come on, really?”. I figured it was worth checking anyway to see if one side of the Chapel was dry and low and behold the whole thing was. Getting started was a little slow. As it turns out there is no great way to carry 3 coffee table sized crash pads across campus, but loaded down I made my way over and got set up. I kind of sat down and looked at the walls not really knowing where to begin. After some looking around I remembered one of the cooler lines I had climbed in the fall. I set up the pads and got into my rigid shoes and made it about 2 moves before having the realization, I haven’t climbed in months and have lost all of the calluses on my fingers. Something cool about the chapel is that it is all kinds of different rocks, but among them some are particularly nasty to pull up on. Sore fingers aside, I managed to put together 5 routes today. I think I will probably be able to do more than ...
Read more
Image
  5/11  8:15pm Today was a good solid day on the chapel. I started off the morning strong with making an interesting route that formed kind of an arch, with some horizontal traversing and some down climbing. Now last night I got a funny email from a friend of mine who happens to be a pretty good photographer with a nice camera, and if you know a good photographer with a nice camera then you know how nice they are to have around. An hour before lunch my friend Gunnar showed up to take the photos. We went around and got some pretty cinematic shots which I will be sprinkling in when I get them. Definitely a fun little detour from the route making. Speaking of making routes, right now I am trying to find the best way to represent them. So far I have just been doing these kinds of sketches. The red marks which hold are available and the purple indicates the general path for more complicated routes like this. This works (this one could use some cleaning up and written explanation )...
Read more